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February 5, 2012

A Dog’s Dinner

What goes to make a dog’s dinner? The phrase implies a mess, but most dogs’ dinners these days look fairly appetizing – a bowl of pleasant-smelling biscuits or half a tin of something that seems like cold meat pie filling.

It all looks very lovely to us humans. And that is the whole purpose – dog food is sold to humans on its appearance and aroma.

We don’t really know what the dog thinks of it. We only know that they wolf it down, but then so would you if you were hungry and you knew that the chance was that that was all you would get offered.

The fact is that a dog will consume almost anything if there is sufficient sugar or and salt on it. I had a collie-cross that would eat anything I gave her except Brussels sprouts (she would take them politely and throw them around, but she would not eat them).

It stands to reason that you cannot get a can of good pie filling for a dollar, so whatever is in there will not be best beef. Yet it has to be fit for human consumption, so what is it? Well, to begin with, the gravy is almost certainly manufactured of carcass scrapings and blood, thickened with flour.

That would make it quite nourishing, but not as appetizing as it looks. The ‘lumps of meat’ are probably not meat. They are most probably offal and soy or something comparable. Again, not a bad thing, but not what it is intended to look like to us and the dog will absolutely know that it is not meat.

So what ought to constitute a dog’s dinner? In the wild, a pack of wolves would bring down, say, a deer and rip its stomach open. The contents thereof are the first course. Since wolves by and large eat vegetarian animals, the stomach contents will usually be grass, leaves and other plants.

Then they will move on to the internal organs like heart and liver. The stomach and organs are the best bits and only the top dogs get them. When they are gone, they rip the carcass apart and devour the meat. Later they chew on the bones.

Those are the guiding principles for making a dog’s dinner. if you cook your own evening meal, cook a bit extra for the dog. Liquidize the vegetables to imitate the chewed food that would be in the deer’s stomach. Most decent butchers will have ‘pets’ mince’ or a mixture that they use for producing faggpts (meatballs).

This pet mince usually contains off-cuts, offal and bits of internal organs, some skin, stomach lining and arteries – all the bits they could not sell to their modern customers. That takes care of the dog’s natural second and third courses.

The butcher will also set some bones aside for his best customers, which you will become if you purchase your own and your dog’s food there. Feed the meat raw mixed with the liquidized vegetables. Add an egg and some dry porridge oats to bind it all and provide fibre and you have the ideal dog’s dinner.

This type of meal will vary on its own because you do not cook the same vegetables every day. You could add an apple or other fruit and celery is good as well.

Owen Jones, the author of this article writes on quite a few topics, but is at present concerned with researching Emergency for Dogs. If you would like to know more, please go to our website at What To Do If Your Dog Eats Chocolate.

February 2, 2012

The Raw Diet For Dogs

Have you ever wondered what goes into dry dog food? I don’t mean the biscuits, although the same applies to them too really but they are usually quite expensive. I mean the dry dog food that comes in big sacks and proclaims to be a complete dog food. What is in it? The Truth.

Wheat seems to be the largest element, so how can you buy this stuff for $1 a pound, but a decent, two-pound loaf of bread costs $3 or more (in the UK)? The goods in the dog food have to be second-rate, don’t they? Dog food has to be safe for human consumption in the UK, but that doesn’t say much either.

The majority of of this dry dog food, especially the cheaper brands, have to be full of ground bones, fish heads, feathers, sweepings off the granary floor and syrup to boost the calorific value. Surely, it is the canine equivalent of junk food?

I fed my collie-cross almost exclusively on dried dog food for eight years, because I could set the food down in the morning and it did not go off whilst I was at work. She finished up with canine diabetes mellitus.

I took her to the vet one day because she had gone blind ‘overnight. She had advanced cataracts due to diabetes. From that day on, I had to collect some urine in the morning, test it, and then inject her with insulin. Sometimes she had a fit.

I carried on feeding her dry food and over the next months, I had to escalate her insulin often. Soon it was nearly a full syringe and I did not want to give her two shots a day, so I looked for a solution on the Internet.

A vet on a pet forum said that it was ‘common knowledge’ that the high sugar content of cheap dried dog food frequently caused canine diabetes after prolonged use. Maybe, it is common knowledge, but I didn’t know.

Another forum member told me the same and suggested a raw diet consisting of 1 lb green beans, 1/2 lb carrots, 1 lb raw mince meat, 2 raw eggs, calcium powder, bran, multivitamins and 8-12 cranberries. Liquidize the green beans and carrots, mix everything except the cranberries together and partition into four. My 45lb dog had one portion and 2-3 cranberries two times a day.

The very first day I gave it to her she had a fit. I had measured her blood-sugar with the old food in her. The new food did not contain as much sugar, so I had given her too much insulin. The next day her insulin requirement was around 35% of what it had been the day before.

My dog lasted a further two years with the new diet, which my vet said was unusually long, because animals do not get the same degree of after care as humans.

I experimented with the diet during the years and discovered that adding an apple or two or a couple of Brussels sprouts did not affect my dog’s blood-sugar. Ever since then, when I see someone heaving a large bag of dry dog food into the trolley, I feel sorry for their dog.

Owen Jones, the writer of this article writes on quite a few subjects, but is at present involved with researching Emergency for Dogs. If you would like to know more, please go to our website at What To Do If Your Dog Eats Chocolate.

March 10, 2011

The Best Way To Groom And Brush Your Dog

Filed under: Uncategorized — Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , , — Owen Jones @ 2:04 pm

All dogs need some kind of grooming, there is no question about that. Even smooth chihuahuas should be wiped with a moist chamois leather to get rid of loose skin and dust. However, one of the main purposes for grooming your dog regularly is so that you can inspect him for skin problems such as allergic reactions to flea or tick bites. Another reason is bonding. In a pack situation, dogs groom other dogs and are themselves groomed every day and dogs like it.

Therefore, you should groom or brush your dog at least once a week and take him to a dog parlour every three, four or six months depending on how fast his hair or fur grows and whether you can manage it or not. Having said that, you will find grooming easier if your dog’s hair is the right length, because it will not tangle so readily.

You should wash your dog every month or so and groom him at at a minimum of once week. This will ensure that your dog gets accustomed to being bathed and handled. If this is done from the puppy age, most dogs will not only accept it, but they will come to enjoy it, although there will always be those dogs that bolt for it as soon as they see a hose and a bowl. They get to know what to look out for. If you talk to him constantly, comforting him and sometimes giving a doggie treat, he should soon come to accept the unavoidable – that he is going to be bathed and groomed.

In fact, most dogs enjoy the grooming, although many only tolerate the bathing. Anyway, bathing and grooming on a regular basis will keep the job as simple as it can be. Once your dog is no longer a puppy, for example after six months or so, you might take him to a professional groomer in a so-called ‘Poodle Parlour’. By then, he should be becoming used to the routine and he will accept the treatment from strangers more readily as well.

You could look for professional groomers in adverts in the pet shop or the vet’s or simply ask your friends and neighbours for recommendations. Finding a groomer should not be problem, but you might have to try a few before you find one whose style of grooming you like or who is adaptable enough to suit your lifestyle.

When you drop your dog off at the Poodle Parlour, ask when it will be ready to be collected up. Turn up 15 minutes early and you could be lucky enough to witness first hand how your dog is being taken care of and how your dog is getting on with the groomer. This is priceless information, because it will help you make up your mind whether the groomer is getting on with your dog or not.

If the groomer is doing a good job, but your dog is anxious, you can help put him at ease. If the groomer is being a bit too rough, then you will know whether to change Poodle Parlours or just have that groomer banned from taking care of your dog.

Owen Jones, the author of this piece writes on quite a few subjects, but is currently concerned with indoor mosquito repellent. If you would like to know more or check out some great offers, please go to our website at Mosquito Repellent For Dogs.

October 12, 2010

How Do Dogs Speak?

Dogs are just about the most intelligent of domestic pets. If you take the time to look, you will see that they have the ability to communicate with humans, other dogs and even other animals. They do this with body signs and voice. Their signs are made with the their eyes, ears, eyebrows, head, mouth and tail.

Their voice is obviously not the same as ours, but they use pitch in their barks, whines, whimpers, pants, growls and howls and their gestures are made with their whole body and every part of it.

You can always differentiate a self-assured and therefore higher ranking dog, because they hold their tails high. Dogs, like all other animals, including we humans, have an innate sense or their position in society. This is because dogs lived in packs in the wild, just as we evolved in villages. which is why they fit well into our human society.

There is a pecking order within their group, as within human society. The subservient dogs submit themselves to the stronger dogs, which is why dogs lower their tail when they feel insecure. When dogs fight for dominance, the fur on their tails stands up and they have this trait in common with other animals. They do it to show that they are being serious in front of their enemy.

A dog that is unsure what to do will wag its tail slowly. A bit like you or I might give a weak smile, unsure whether to smile explicitly or glower. They are in a process of figuring out whether they should accept the status quo or fight. Excited dogs wag their tails very fast and if the dog’s hip moves along with its tail, it means that the dog is in subservient mode to a higher ranker. A pet should do that to its owner, as you have become the leader of its surrogate pack.

When dogs become aggressive they show their teeth, the same as humans. If all of the teeth are visible, it indicates that the dog is prepared to bite or attack. We do the same unconsciously. People often bare their teeth and snarl insults, before a fight. However, they also show teeth when they smile but this is an indication of compliance, again as we do – submissiveness here meaning a recognition that a fight is superfluous.

With a dog, the number of teeth on display differentiates between a smile and a snarl. In a smile, a dog only shows the front teeth, but in a snarl the dog reveals all his teeth and gums and makes an aggressive noise.

Ears are a good indication of the dog’s level of attention. When the ears are erect and forward facing, it means that the dog is concentrating. But if the dog is stress-free, its ears will lie flat. However, some breeds do not have as much control over their ears.

Dogs bark to protect their territory, which comes to mean their boss’ territory, which should mean your property. However, barking is their normal language so you will have to learn the difference between friendly play barking and aggression in your dog. It is pretty apparent though.

Observation of your pet is the key, because, although all dogs are the same as in all humans are the same, there are minor differences. They are not difficult to learn, just spend some time with you dog and keep your mind open and it will become very apparent to you.

If you are interested in dogs or Welsh corgi puppies, or even Wales in general, go to our website at Welsh Products Online

May 26, 2010

The Copperhead Snake.

Filed under: Uncategorized — Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , — Owen Jones @ 11:50 am

Copperhead snakes are the snakes that cause the nastiest and most frequent snake-bite problems in the United States. The copperhead can be distinguished by its stout shape and its neck, which is distinct from the body as well as by its pale cross-band tan pattern that gets darker in the middle and on the sides.

Copperhead snakes have pale bellies, similar to the ground on which they live, but they sometimes appear pretty whitish. There are visible spots or pits on the heads of these snakes that look like darker tiny specks, but there is also a rather discolored stripe on the head area behind the eyes; this stripe looks very diffuse on top but it gets brownish towards the edges.

Copperheads live in a wide variety of habitats. They can be found under rocks, in woods and on river banks or in pond areas. Their choice of abode is dictated by the presence of prey, as they like to live on frogs, small rodents, cicadas, lizards, caterpillars and anything else that is no match for their size.

Among the best hide-outs for the copperhead, wood piles, stone slabs, walls, debris and abandoned or ruined buildings are the most common, which explains the possibility of a human encounter with them in such areas. These snakes are most active in the spring and summer months and as long as the weather stays warm, after which they enter the hibernation period.

The dens into which copperhead snakes retreat during winter are their homes year after year, and usually there are more specimens living in the same place. In summer time when it is too hot outside, copperhead snakes will stay in the shade during the day and go out to hunt at night. On pleasantly warm days, the copperhead will simply bask in the sun on rocks or wood debris. Copperheads do not hatch eggs, but give birth to live young. The number of young varies between one and fourteen. The mating period extends untill mid autumn.

The bites of copperhead snakes require immediate medical care since they are not only very painful but they may also lead to permanent scarring and tissue loss. Avoid copperhead snakes when you come across them. Many people get bitten when trying to kill them or pick them up.

Snakes will not attack you unless they feel threatened, then, you will see how fiercely they can defend themselves. Statistics reveal that these snakes have the highest incidence biting in the United States, because Copperhead snakes attack immediately without giving warning signs like other species do.

Interested in the Copperhead snake? To learn more about snakes visit http://caring-for-snakes.the-real-way.com our new web site.

categories: snakes,reptiles,unusual,pets,exotic,animals,florida,california,tropical,fauna,America,USA,outdoors,other

April 7, 2010

Cobras

The snake called the spitting cobra is one of the most peculiar species as it not only has a venomous bite but it also sprays venom into the eyes of its prey and aggressors. Contact of this venom with your eyes can be very painful and even temporarily blinding, therefore, if you get cobra venom in your eyes, irrigate them immediately in order to prevent permanent tissue damage.

The King Cobra (Ophiophagus hannah) is also unusual in this large family of snakes (elapidae) because it feeds almost exclusively on other snakes with mice and small birds also making up part of its diet.

The King Cobra is also unique because of its size – it can reach 5.85m (almost 20 feet) in length, which makes it the longest poisonous snake in the world. The latest discovery of a new species of cobra was made in 2003 when it was identified by London Zoo as part of an illegal shipment of exotic pets.

Going by DNA reports, this new species of snake is similar to the red spitting cobra but differs in genes. It apparently originates from an area between Sudan and Egypt and it has been named the ‘Nubian Spitting Cobra’.

Although they are highly dangerous when threatened cobras will rarely attack if you keep your distance from them, although the spit can travel very accurately for two meters. Compared to the strike of a rattlesnake, the cobra is rather slow in its attack and besides that, many bites prove to be non-venomous.

A study conducted on Malaysian cobra snake victims indicates that only 55% of the wounds involved venom release and the same statistics indicate a mortality rate of 10% for people bitten, since the toxins injected into the blood of the prey devastate the nerves (neurotoxin) inducing respiratory failure half an hour after being bitten, giving you 30 minutes to seek an antidote.

Their colouration varies from light green-grey to black, although juveniles are yellow and black banded.This snake is widespread throughout south-eastern Asia.

Are you interested in the Cobras? To learn more about snakes visit Caring for Snakes our brand-new web site.

categories: snakes,reptiles,unusual,pets,exotic,animals,florida,california,tropical,fauna,Thailand,Asia,outdoors,other

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